Spring in the mountains is a season of contradictions. The sun shines warmly on your face one moment, and the next, a rogue snowstorm blankets the ground in white. For gardeners, this season offers a mix of hope and challenge—the yearning to dig in and plant met with the unpredictable whims of mountain weather. How did you realize that [some] plants can freeze [sometimes] and survive?
Was it noticing that the early spring weeds like blue mustard, white top, and shepard's purse pop up only to be covered by snow that melts away to reveal unharmed plants?
Was it your neighbor's daffodils blooming unexpectedly early? Or a late summer high-altitude hike when frosty mornings seem at odds with the abundant plant life you see along the trail?
Many of us know that [some] plants can freeze [sometimes] and still be fine. But not many gardeners know that [some] veggies can too!
And that's because of garden drama queens like tomatoes. When we plant out our tomatoes or flower containers in late May and find them black and crispy after a sneaky frost, we vow to never plant too early again. But maybe notice that your spinach is alive and well under the tomato carcass that's piled on top of it!
Because before there's garden season, there's salad season! If you are willing to risk some heartbreak, gain some skills, and do a little work!
So let's talk skills - from warming the soil to protecting seedlings, this guide will show you how to prepare, protect, and plant for a successful salad season— despite the late frosts of April and May.
Warm your soil early with black plastic or row covers to kickstart growth.
Use frost protection tools like cloths, cold frames, and water barriers to outwit sudden freezes.
Focus on cool-season crops like spinach, peas, and radishes for a resilient early spring garden.
Plan, prepare, and stagger your plantings to maximize success and minimize risk.
A thriving spring garden begins well before the first seed hits the soil. Preparation is your best defense against the unpredictability of mountain weather. Here’s how to get started:
Mountain soil takes its time waking up from winter’s chill. Cold soil can stunt seed germination or delay plant growth, so warming it up is essential for success.
Use Black or Clear Plastic: Lay plastic over your garden beds for 1-2 weeks before planting. The dark black surface absorbs heat from the sun, raising soil temperatures and creating a more inviting environment for seeds. Clear plastic works like a greenhouse to trap warmth around the soil.
Row Covers: Low tunnels or floating row covers not only warm the soil but also protect it from frost and wind. You can set your season extenders up a few weeks before you plan to plant to thaw the soil faster.
Soil Thermometer: Use a soil [kitchen] thermometer to monitor temperatures. Cool-season crops like spinach and peas can handle soil temps of 40°F, but most seeds thrive at 50°F or above. The official way to take the soil temperature is at 8am 3 inches below the surface. Get nerdy! Record your temperatures daily in both the areas that you are actively warming and a nearby naturally warming spot.
Healthy soil is the foundation of any successful garden. Take time to test and amend your soil before planting:
Test for pH and Nutrients: Use a simple soil test kit to check your garden’s pH and nutrient levels. Mountain soils often lean basic and there's not much we can do about it. You can send your samples to Ward Labs or CSU Soil and Water Lab. Or if you really want to know what's going on with your soil's biology, schedule a comprehensive soil test with our sister company, The Ground Up.
Amend with Compost: Add organic matter like compost or aged manure to enrich the soil, improve drainage, and support healthy root growth. Beware of your source though. Manure and compost can be contaminated with persistent herbicides that come from the hay, which horses and cows eat. The herbicides pass unchanged through the animal and are then found in their manure. This particular class of pesticides prevents, among other things, beans from sprouting and tomatoes from growing normally, ever. If you want to test your amendments, try sprouting some simple dried beans from the store or extra bean seeds. Since beans are so sensitive and fast-growing, they can act as a canary in a coal mine and let you know if your amendment is going to contaminate your garden.
What about mulching: While I love mulching my garden most of the time, I often scrape back the mulch layer and pile it in a corner of the bed during this warming period. The soil warms faster without it. Also during this experimental salad season, I'm only planting seeds which could have a hard time coming up through a thick layer of winter mulch. Once the weather heats up in late May to early June, I replace the mulch around my plants.
Preparation also means having the right tools on hand when it’s time to plant:
Frost Cloths and Row Covers: Essential for protecting young seedlings from cold snaps.
Seed Starting Supplies: If you’re starting seeds indoors, make sure you have trays, lights, and seed-starting mix ready to go.
Garden Layout: Sketch a rough map of your garden beds to plan where you’ll plant each crop. Group cool-season crops together for easier management.
By taking these steps to prepare your garden, you’re setting the stage for a season of growth and success. Mountain gardening may come with its challenges, but with a little forethought, you’ll be ready to meet them head-on.
Early spring in the mountains comes with its share of unexpected weather, from sudden snowstorms to late frosts that sneak up just when you think it’s safe to plant. Protecting your garden is essential for avoiding heartbreak and keeping your cool-season crops thriving.
Row Covers and Frost Cloths: These are a gardener’s best friend in early spring. Use them to cover rows of seedlings overnight, creating a buffer against cold temperatures and wind. You’ll want to suspend your cloth over the plants.
Cold Frames: Build or buy a cold frame to protect delicate seedlings and transplants. A cold frame acts as a mini-greenhouse, shielding plants from the elements while allowing sunlight to penetrate.
Water Barriers: Fill gallon jugs with water and place them near your seedlings. During the day, they absorb heat, and at night, they release it to keep temperatures stable. Or use wall of waters.
Mulch: If you have a pile of leaves or straw, you can fully cover your plants during the cold spell. Assuming it’s not too windy, the fluffy mulch can trap warmth closer to the plants. You can uncover your seedlings once the warmer weather returns.
Know Your Average Last Frost Window: Use your region’s average last frost window as a guide, but be prepared to adjust based on real-time conditions.
Watch the Weather: Check forecasts daily and plan accordingly. If frost is on the horizon, have your protection materials ready to deploy. Or just leave them on all the time if the daytime temperatures are not too hot.\n\nStagger Plantings: Don’t plant all your seeds at once. Plant in small batches over a few weeks to minimize risk. During the early part of salad season, I generally only risk seeds. But as we move into May, I begin adding precious seedlings (but never all at once.)
Sometimes, even the best-laid plans can’t outsmart Mother Nature. Here’s how to recover:
Inspect for Damage: Check plants for signs of frost burn, such as blackened or wilted leaves.
Trim and Cover: Remove damaged foliage and cover your plants if you haven’t already.
Plant Again: If you’ve followed my advice to only plant salad seeds during this wild time, you’ll still have seeds left in your packet to resow your little patch. Good gardeners kill plants; you’ve got this!
Once your soil is warm and your frost protection measures are in place, it’s time to plant! Early spring is all about hardy, cool-season crops that can withstand mountain challenges.
What to Plant: Spinach, peas, radishes, carrots, and beets are great choices for direct sowing in early spring.
How to Sow: Follow seed packet instructions for depth and spacing. Cover seeds lightly with soil and water gently. You don’t need to follow “between row” spacing. That’s for farmers who need to get tools in between the rows.
Protect Your Seeds: Use lightweight row covers to shield emerging seedlings from wind and hungry animals.
Hardy Transplants: Broccoli, cabbage, and kale are ideal for transplanting in late spring.
Hardening Off: Before planting outdoors, gradually expose your seedlings to outdoor conditions over a week to toughen them up.
Spacing Tips: Give transplants room to grow, but keep row covers handy for protection during their early days.
Maximize Your Space: Plant fast-growing crops like lettuce and radishes in small batches every 2-3 weeks for a continuous harvest.
Interplanting: Pair slower-growing crops like carrots with quick growers like spinach to make the most of limited space.
Mountain gardening isn’t easy, but with preparation, protection, and smart planting, you can create a thriving salad season garden that defies the odds. Remember, gardening is as much about learning as it is about the harvest—so don’t be afraid to experiment, adapt, and try again.
Ready to get started? We’ve got everything you need to kick off your spring garden:\n- High-quality seeds for cool-season crops.
Durable frost protection supplies, including row covers and cold frames.
Nutrient-rich soil amendments to give your plants the best start.
Simply send us a message to set up a shopping appointment before we officially open for the season. Let’s make this year your most resilient garden yet!
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